Sports & recreation · Pool roofs
Roofs over outdoor pools, hotel pool decks and semi-enclosed aquatic areas — where chlorine, evaporation and a deck that is never quite dry change what the frame and the roof have to be made of.
01 What the roof has to solve
A pool roof looks like a court roof with water underneath. It is not. Chlorine attacks the wrong coating, evaporating water condenses on the underside of the wrong membrane, and a gutter that discharges onto the deck creates a slip hazard exactly where people walk barefoot. Those three failures account for most pool canopies that get taken down again.
Indoor and semi-enclosed pools put chloramines and permanent humidity against every coated surface, and coastal sites add salt. The frame is specified with a coating system for that exposure and stainless fixings rather than plated ones; where the roof is fabric, the membrane is chosen for chlorine resistance rather than the cheapest PVC on the list.
Warm humid air meets a cooler roof and water runs down the inside face — onto the deck, or onto bathers. A single-skin roof over a heated pool needs ventilation at the ridge and eaves, or a double-layer membrane with an air gap. That is a design decision; retrofitting it is expensive.
Water leaving the roof must not land on the walking surface. The gutter runs to the perimeter, downpipes discharge into drainage or a soakaway, and the low edge is detailed so water does not sheet off it onto the deck.
Poolside frames are handled constantly. A coating that is fine on a carport goes chalky and marked after a few seasons of chlorine and wet hands, so the specification states the coating system and the touch-up procedure — the frame gets maintained rather than replaced.
02 Configuration
Most pool canopies are open on at least two sides: the point is shade and rain cover, not a sealed building. That choice sets the wind load, the condensation risk and the price, which is why it is made on the layout drawing.
03 Photographs
Reference installations across this range. Sizes, colours and membranes vary by project — send a photo of your site and we will say which of these is closest.
04 How it works
Every project follows the same four steps. Nothing is cut until the drawing is approved and the deposit is received.
Photos of the deck, the water area to be covered, the wind direction and whether the pool is heated. Dimensions or a site plan.
Post positions off the deck, roof form and drip line, ventilation or double-skin build-up, and the wind load with the sides you choose.
Priced per bay with the coating system, membrane, ventilation detail, drainage and packing.
Frame coated, membrane cut and marked, cartons labelled by bay with the sequence for laying the sheet.
05 Questions
Something not covered here? Send the question on WhatsApp — we answer in English. All questions
Yes, and it is the usual answer for outdoor pools and hotel decks. The membrane is specified for chlorine and UV exposure, and the roof is detailed so the fabric can be re-tensioned and eventually replaced without changing the frame.
A single-skin roof in still air does get warm underneath, which is why ventilation at the ridge and eaves is part of the design rather than an extra. A double-layer build-up with an air gap is the alternative where the pool is heated and used year round.
It depends on your local rules and on whether the sides are closed. An open-sided roof over an outdoor pool is usually treated as a structure; a fully enclosed pool hall is a building. We supply the drawings and the structural calculation for the permit conversation either way.
Yes. Extending the same roof over the plant or a seating area is a bay-length decision, not a new structure, provided the wind load and the drainage are recalculated for the longer run. Say so at layout stage so the extra bay is in the price.
No catalogue numbers, no online checkout. Tell us the site, the span and the destination, and the quotation is built against the layout you approve.
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